The GRcade Tabletop Gaming & Miniature Painting Thread (Warhammer etc)

I'm really impressed by these videos and for persistently putting them out for so long (over 10 years!). If LewisD is right a part of me wish we knew!

I'm feeling really awful today so just watching someone paint minis for a bit has cheered my up. With my business being a commercial art studio where for vast periods of times trying to make sales I am actually "making" nothing at all it can get really draining. It's great to see a successful channel made up out of that.

I only went in for red spray paint and the rust dry brush paint :shock:

Thought the missus was going to kill me when he said the total :oops:

And that shall be my last visit to a Warhammer shop. Lesson learned :lol:

And I thought Airsoft was expensive!

Also, strawberry float mould lines.

Imrahil wrote:Also, strawberry float mould lines.

You seem to use SM blades, which are great, but have you also considered needle files and a bit of 800 or more grit sandpaper?

These are pretty good for the money. My partner got them for 3d prints and I stole them.

I shave off most of the mould line with a scalpel and then contour to the model using these. The different profiles are really good for following the form of the part. They would work fine on white metal and resin too.

Yeah, I'm actually using some needle files as well - but I've got one part which is a sort of ribbed power tubing - and all up and down the tiny ribbed edges is a massive mould line. So I'm having to scrape inbetween all the undulations to get rid of it.

Thankfully most of the mould lines are on normal areas which the blade/files can sort out easily enough. Worth getting this done properly though, it'll look a lot better once painted.

I’ve just started using dspiae sanding sponges which are quite nice, before that, back of a sm blade or the gw mould scraper is actually pretty good

LewisD wrote:And that shall be my last visit to a Warhammer shop. Lesson learned
And I thought Airsoft was expensive!

Never buy anything direct from gw unless there is literally no option, especially from their shops where the staff are encouraged to upsell as much as possible, especially when there are so many independent sellers who offer 20-30% off online.

Trelliz wrote:
LewisD wrote:And that shall be my last visit to a Warhammer shop. Lesson learned
And I thought Airsoft was expensive!

Never buy anything direct from gw unless there is literally no option, especially from their shops where the staff are encouraged to upsell as much as possible, especially when there are so many independent sellers who offer 20-30% off online.

Yeah, it's my own fault as I know better. Just get caught up in the immediacy of having things there.

Like I say, only went in for red spray and ryza rust.

My oldest got to build his Chaos rhino tonight.

He wanted to add every accessory from the sprue (he's gone to bed, but insists it's still not finished)

I know I've said it before, but the plastic models nowadays are leagues above what we had 20 years back. So precisely made and so detailed. Love them.

you can tell him I take great personal offence to the tau skull proudly displayed on the spike

New contrast paints available to preorder as a bundle - £118.75
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/co ... h-mug-2022

And new shades in a bundle - £90.25:
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/sh ... h-mug-2022

And white scar spray - £13.75:
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/wh ... t-2022-row

False wrote:you can tell him I take great personal offence to the tau skull proudly displayed on the spike

I shall let him know :lol:

Hopefully he's finished covering it in spiky decorations by the time I finish work and we can spray it black and get going with it.

I still have some chaos black spray, but I prefer the grey primer these days - black tends to hide the detail for fine brush painting I find.

Although for a large vehicle I guess that doesn't matter that much.

Imrahil wrote:Yeah, I'm actually using some needle files as well - but I've got one part which is a sort of ribbed power tubing - and all up and down the tiny ribbed edges is a massive mould line. So I'm having to scrape inbetween all the undulations to get rid of it.

Thankfully most of the mould lines are on normal areas which the blade/files can sort out easily enough. Worth getting this done properly though, it'll look a lot better once painted.

Oh yeah those are an absolute bitch.

I use files with a triangular profile and literally trim knicks into every single segmentation with a scalpel. It takes forever.

False wrote:I’ve just started using dspiae sanding sponges which are quite nice, before that, back of a sm blade or the gw mould scraper is actually pretty good

I forgot about sponges. Are those like tiny ones? In theory someone could make long, thin sponges attached to something that would be great for essentially automatically getting into details/contours.

There are many occasions where you basically just have to sculpt aspects of the model again. No getting away from it.

I got particular about it after I uploaded one of my tyranids to facebook and someone just went OMG MOLD LINES.

Big sponges that you cut to size - I got the idea from the crazy car modellers

One thing I've realised with this dreadnought is that GW are great figurine makers but poor model makers. There are some intricate pieces that need to come together but so much of it is wonky, over-sized, etc - especially with parts with protruding dowels that need to slot into holes. The amount of plastic I'm having to gouge off to get things to fit, and we're not talking mould lines, is ridiculous.

They could learn a thing or two from established model brands I think for the more complex model products they make.

Yeah I've never had that issue with a Gundam model for example.

Citadel in that respect resemble some of the worst of the repeatedly re-used 1960s moulds in something like Airfix classic cars (typically re-issued as level 1 or 2 kits with a couple of paints, glues etc but are actually hilariously hard with some instructions like this :lol:

).

It's literally just an exploded diagram of parts! There are almost no nubs/sockets or locators of any kind at all. You're meant to just hold it together with your hands one part at a time. My theory is a lot of them are like that because they knew it wouldn't fit together anyway if they did fixings. Too much flashing and too many voids / air pockets.

Some are better than others (put together some Vindicators for the missus and they were almost push fit) but the less said about the Spirit Hosts the better :lol:

I was hoping with the Primaris Dreadnought being a fairly new product, it would be one of the better ones in that regard, but sadly it's not.

Sublimely detailed on the outside obviously, so the finished model will look great though.

The GRcade Tabletop Gaming & Miniature Painting Thread (Warhammer etc)

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