The GRcade Tabletop Gaming & Miniature Painting Thread (Warhammer etc)

started my sister superior last night and what a model

so small and intricate and they did a really good job hiding the mould lines, but those that are there are such an utter strawberry float to smooth and the join lines are really hard to cover - my first foray into liquid green stuff for seam work and holy crap its fine work

might try some milliput white instead

False wrote:do you have a link to the markers please? I did look but couldnt find what they looked like

oh right and what did they set you back

I have liquid green stuff but have never actually used it, I think it's more for blood and stuff like that.

I've used milliput and various other fillers in the past but since I got fed up with them drying out and milliput / two party epoxy is expensive for what it is (but works very well), I just use black plastercine then use a brush on applicator superglue to create a hard shell over it. When it's dry you can paint directly over it.

So you get the fineness and smoothness of a very malleable oily type of clay product with a hard shell.

I've used genuine (old stock British) plastercine in this way to sculpt everything from entire models, sometimes painting directly over it (citadel colour is a polyurethane acrylic emulsion so it create a sort of seal but it can crack, hence superglue), to sculpting bases and filling gaps. It's just so easy to work with, does stick to your fingers a bit but can apply pieces with sculpting tools instead. It's a bit of a hack and probably the wrong product but it's what I do at the moment out of habit.

I've even used white and blutack in the past, it doesn't really matter since you're painting over it. What matters is the durability and long term properties of those fills. I also make pins and drill those in for large models.

Don't be afraid to file aggressively around parts that just don't fit together. You can smooth over a lot by sculpting and then painting in detail that's been removed.

liquid green is literally advertised by gw as a seam filler, it goes on pretty nicely and is quite workable but the problem is that it contracts as it dries

it means it really does capillary into the seams but you need several coats, and if you arent well up on it then applying to such a small and intricate model like this its a bit of a stress

as for recreating detail I dont think its really possible for me on this model, its super super fine

You can get actual green stuff a lot cheaper by not getting the gw stuff - i got about 3ft of it off ebay for the price of the tiny amount gw sell, search for kneadatite.

yeah but

I already have the little tub of liquid green innit

False wrote:yeah but

I already have the little tub of liquid green innit

The liquid stuff, as you've seen, is much thinner and capiliaries into the gap. 'Proper' green stuff is like hardening blutac which fills the gap and you file down the excess afterwards.

Aye, I tried to use it when I were a lad to do stuff that looked dead easy in white dwarf

Yeah "green stuff" is just two-part epoxy, comes in yellow and blue strip and then you mix it together, thing is it takes ages and once you've done it that's it, so you have to be careful not to waste it.

Milliput I'm pretty sure is the same thing.

You can get it no-brand on Amazon for less.

Interesting what you say about the liquid green stuff, I'd find that very annoying. It's contracting because of whatever the carrier substance or retardant is (probably water) just evaporates thus lessening the volume.. Not very productive if it does that. For filling seams it's probably fine but for bigger gaps yeah you have to move onto something else.

Edit: here's a couple of products I've boomarked, superfine milliput: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002CNEWAM/

5x standard milliput for £11.75 inc. delivery: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011BOA4Y0/

3m tough aluminium wire for armatures (although I usually make pins with paperclips) £2.21: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002KLP908/

12 steel & knurled wax/carving/sculptuing tools £6.19: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000V6MTDO/

Another product I was looking at for sculpting in volume is Apoxie, read loads of recommendations for this, you can get it in 225g tubs so quite a lot, but it's £23 quid so not really for less serious projects. It's meant to be very smooth, you can use it for the bulk of a sculpt and then add other resin-based clays over the top. It's self hardening like epoxy but pre-mixed and as long as you work it it doesn't dry, so you can keep sculpting until you're done. Probably the least fussy product and obviously you don't have to cure it with heat so not going to melt your model. I like that you can take your time with it and don't have to mix it or cure it in any way. Plus it's already white so if your miniature gets marked or paint flakes it's not green or blue or something that stands out underneath (something that's fun to deal with if you ever have an exploded larger miniature with lots of customisation).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0013UDWXI/

finished

More proof today that GW reads GRcade:

Tempted by these:

That is seriously legit, better than my efforts anyway.

Thanks babe x

I rate it 10/GRcade

Community art scene is strong...

I've been watching a bunch of painting videos on youtube now thanks to Falsey streaming the other night.

Not really miniatures but my some useful info depending on what people are doing.

Part of me really wants to get into aircraft builds and achieve this level of detail now that I have grown up and have a little more patience!

the weathering detail in this is phenomenal!

I tried a mig last week

much much harder than it looks, trust me

I have a 1:100 mig 21 if you want me to send it, dm for details etc

False wrote:finished

That is really well done

thx babe

The GRcade Tabletop Gaming & Miniature Painting Thread (Warhammer etc)

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